HLM

HLM, Sénégal - Complete Travel Guide

HLM (Habitations à Loyer Modéré) is a sprawling residential district in the Dakar metropolitan area of Sénégal, representing one of the largest urban neighborhoods in West Africa. Originally developed as public housing in the 1950s and 1960s, HLM has evolved into a busy, densely populated area that serves as a microcosm of modern Senegalese urban life. The district is divided into several zones (HLM 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5), each with its own character and community dynamics. While not a traditional tourist destination, HLM offers visitors an authentic glimpse into contemporary Senegalese culture, away from the more touristy areas of central Dakar. The neighborhood is known for its bustling markets, local eateries serving traditional Senegalese cuisine, busy street art, and strong sense of community. Visitors can experience genuine local hospitality, witness daily life in urban Senegal, and explore a side of the country that few international travelers encounter.

Top HLM

Local Markets

Visit the bustling neighborhood markets where residents shop for fresh produce, textiles, and household goods. These markets offer an real feel of daily Senegalese life, with vendors selling everything from colorful fabrics to fresh fish and vegetables. The atmosphere is lively and provides excellent opportunities to interact with locals and practice basic Wolof phrases.

Booking Tip: No booking required - markets are typically busiest in the morning hours between 8-11 AM. Bring small denomination CFA francs for purchases and be prepared to negotiate prices politely.

Street Art and Mural Tours

Discover the busy street art scene that decorates many walls throughout the HLM neighborhoods. Local and international artists have created colorful murals that reflect social themes, cultural identity, and community pride. These artistic expressions provide insight into contemporary Senegalese youth culture and social issues.

Booking Tip: Self-guided exploration is free, or contact local cultural associations for guided tours costing around 5,000-10,000 CFA francs. Best visited during daylight hours for safety and better photography.

Community Football Matches

Experience the passion for football by attending local matches at neighborhood fields and courts. Football is deeply embedded in Senegalese culture, and watching or participating in games provides great opportunities to connect with residents. The atmosphere is electric, especially during evening matches when temperatures cool down.

Booking Tip: Matches are typically free to watch, with games usually held in late afternoon or evening. Ask locals about match schedules, and consider bringing a small gift like a football to share with young players.

Traditional Cooking Experiences

Learn to prepare authentic Senegalese dishes like thieboudienne, yassa, or mafé with local families or in community centers. These hands-on experiences offer deep cultural immersion while learning about local ingredients, cooking techniques, and the social significance of food sharing in Senegalese culture.

Booking Tip: Arrange through local contacts or community organizations for 15,000-25,000 CFA francs per person. Sessions typically last 3-4 hours and include ingredient shopping and eating together.

Local Music and Dance Sessions

Participate in or observe traditional Senegalese music and dance performances in community spaces. These sessions often feature sabar drumming, traditional dances, and sometimes modern Senegalese music styles. It's an excellent way to experience the rich musical heritage that Senegal is famous for worldwide.

Booking Tip: Community sessions are often free or require small donations. Evening sessions are most common, typically starting around 7 PM. Ask at local community centers or mosques for information about upcoming events.

Getting There

HLM is easily accessible from central Dakar via various transportation options. The most common way is by taking a 'car rapide' (colorful local buses) or 'Tata' buses from downtown Dakar, which cost around 150-200 CFA francs and take 20-30 minutes depending on traffic. Taxis are also available for around 2,000-3,000 CFA francs from central Dakar, though prices may be higher for tourists. The Dakar Dem Dikk bus system also serves the area with more comfortable, air-conditioned buses. If arriving from Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport, you can take a taxi directly to HLM for approximately 15,000-20,000 CFA francs, or use public transportation with connections through central Dakar.

Getting Around

Within HLM, walking is the primary mode of transportation for short distances, as the neighborhood is quite walkable despite its size. For longer distances within the district, motorcycle taxis ('Jakarta' or 'Oléyé') are popular and cost around 200-500 CFA francs for short trips. Shared taxis and minibuses connect different zones within HLM and to other parts of Dakar. The area is well-connected by a network of paved and unpaved roads, though traffic can be heavy during peak hours. Many residents also use bicycles, and bike rental may be available through local contacts. It's advisable to travel with someone familiar with the area, especially for first-time visitors, as the neighborhood layout can be complex.

Where to Stay

HLM 5 (newer residential area)

HLM Grand Médine (central location)

HLM Patte d'Oie (well-connected)

HLM Bourguiba (established neighborhood)

Parcelles Assainies (nearby planned community)

Guédiawaye (adjacent district)

Food & Dining

HLM offers an authentic taste of Senegalese cuisine through numerous local restaurants, street food vendors, and small eateries called 'tanganas.' You'll find excellent thieboudienne (the national dish), grilled fish, yassa chicken, and mafé at very reasonable prices, typically ranging from 1,000-3,000 CFA francs per meal. Street food is abundant, with vendors selling fataya (meat pastries), beignets, and fresh fruit throughout the day. Small neighborhood restaurants often serve home-style cooking that's more authentic than tourist-oriented establishments. Don't miss trying attaya (traditional tea ceremony) at local tea spots, which serve as important social gathering places. Most eateries are cash-only and may not have English menus, so basic French or Wolof phrases are helpful.

When to Visit

The best time to visit HLM is during Senegal's dry season from November to April, when temperatures are more comfortable and rainfall is minimal. The coolest and most pleasant months are December through February, with daytime temperatures around 24-27°C (75-80°F). March and April can be quite hot but are still manageable. The rainy season from May to October brings high humidity and occasional flooding in some areas, making navigation more challenging. For the most real feel, avoid major Islamic holidays when many businesses close, though these can also offer unique cultural insights. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times of day to explore, as midday temperatures can be intense year-round.

Insider Tips

Learn basic Wolof greetings like 'Na nga def' (how are you) as most residents speak Wolof as their primary language, and this will be greatly appreciated

Always ask permission before taking photos of people or their homes, and consider offering to share the photos with subjects via WhatsApp or email

Dress modestly and respectfully, especially when visiting during prayer times or religious holidays, as HLM has a strong Muslim community with several mosques

HLM